2006 Kistler Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard

Burgundian style California chardonnay. Lots of flint, minerals, iodine, saline and sweet vanilla. Dense and packed with flavor, it is a tasty treat, and will improve for many years. Long, smooth finish. Extremely well made. My favorite McCrea so far. Retail $100, grade: A.

2006 Saxum James Berry Vineyard

Big, dark velvet purple, and beautiful. Smells like ripe spicy plums with crushed black pepper. Full, rich body of cloves, herbed spicy dark fruits, and cured meats. Very long finish. This has a lot of alcohol (16.6%), but holds itself with impeccable balance. Delicious and croud pleasing wine. I'm on the Saxum mailing list, and will continue to buy all they offer me. I paid $55, current retail $70, grade: A.

Fun dinner at Tribeca Grill: Grade: A

2006 Kistler Chardonnay Cuvee Cathleen. Absurd huge and great full mouth full of
minty lemon grapefruit peach pit. Josh says candied lemon rind. Gary gets butterscotch. Lovely vibration. A complete and beautiful California Chardonnay. Retail $140. Grade: A.

1999 Vincent Girardin Mazis-Chambertin. Amazing sweet black cherry nose. Full sweet and very pure fruit. Gary says blackberry. Josh wants to just sit and smell. Tastes very expensive. Gary's WOTN. Grade: A

2004 Colgin Syrah. Va voom. Racy, huge, deep dark American Syrah. Stinging finish. Giant. Too young. Grade: A

1986 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon. Lots of Bordeaux style pencil shavings. Long and ripe. And too young! Togni makes his cabernet to age practically forever. Grew over the hour we drank it. I liked the last bottle of this a little more. Josh's WOTN. Grade: A-

Wine Enthusiast's Toast of the Town at Lincoln Center

This is a fun tasting/ food event, with stations from tasty restaurants mixed between wines from all around the world. The best thing to do at an event like this is to seek the expensive wine first, as it tends to run out. I was on the lookout for champagne and grand cru burgundy, and found some Cristal and Clos de Tart. Thanks Steve!

2002 Louis Roederer Cristal. Good.

06 Achelo Syrah. Nice nose. All tannins. Powerhouse.

03 Maime Negroamaro. Interesting earthy flavors. Nice.

07 Newton red label. Decent.

06 Newton unfiltered chardonnay. Heavy but good. Very expensive American style rich sunny white.

08 Drylands Sauvignon Blanc.

08 Kim Crawford unoaked chardonnay.

06 Drouhin Chablis Premier Cru. I was the only one of our group that liked it, nice oyster shell.

06 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir.

2003 Torres Mas la Plana Cabernet Sauvignon. $55 retail. Good clear cigar box.

06 clos de tart. Nice. Guy said $545 per bottle! They've raised prices more than 2X after a great 2005. The problem is that the 06s aren't nearly as good. Still an excellent taste of grand cru burgundy.

06 Yalumba hand picked barosa. Jammy full fruit.

04 Yalumba signature. Nice concentration.

06 Solaire by Mondavi. Great house wine. Tastes expensive.

06 Whitehaven pinot. Nice at first, then turning very sweet.

05 sterling reserve cab. Extracted and sculpted with massive alcohol.
Lots of flavor but lacks balance. B+

05 Beaulieu Latour private reserve. Not great.

05 Kunde reserve Cabernet. Lots of fruit. Not great for price.

06. Perry Moore beckstoffer tokolon cabernet sauvignon. $110 From a great vineyard. We all liked this smooth deep rich cab.

06 Perry Moore beckstoffer dr krane cabernet sauvignon. $100. Also good.

06 Hess Mount Veeder 19 block.

04 Kenwood Artist Reserve. Pretty nice.

05 Peo Cesare Barolo. Ash and tar. Very nice.

1998 Lamarche Clos de Vougeot

This is fully mature, drink up. Dark, woody and a little heavy handed, this is a serious wine. Not playful. It doesn't dance, its more like marching. There's root veggies, oak, and some cinnamon, and some pine wrapped in aluminum. Nice smooth long finish. I got this on closeout from Wine Connection. I paid $30. Grand Cru burgundy at this price is nearly impossible to find. Lots of detail for a wine at this price. Grade: A-.

2009 Acker BYO at TriBeca Grill

Amazing evening. I was not functional the next day, but it was worth it. In this setting, it is a challenge to really evaluate each wine, so I only graded a few. Here's what I tried:

99 Coche Dury Corton Charlemagne. Holy crap. Totally sublime, the most impeccable silky smooth, weightless but heavy, strong but delicate, toasty oaky oily gigantic finish wine. A+
2000 Tatinger Comte Rose.
96 Ramonet Batard. Not oxidized!! Tasty, but a different league from the Coche.
93 Roumier Amoureuses.
87 Mondavi Reserve Cab
90 Roumier Bonnes Mares. Rocking. Thousands of tiny palate explosions and fireworks of perfect ripe fruit, amazing anise nose and a giant of a finish. Thank you Lester! A+
88 d'or pommard. Jarollieres. Mature. From a magnum.
69 Camus Chambertin.
90 Krug from mag.
89 Rayas. Wow. Thanks again Lester!
90 Rousseau Chambertin. Wow wow wow, most delicate and complete. A work of art. A+
90 Leroy navaux. Wow, thanks Seth!
98 Ramonet Chevallier Montrachet from mag.
90 Sandrone Barono Canubi Bachus.
91 Mugnier Bonnes Mares
89 La Conseillante.
90 La Conseillante.
90 Bachelet Charmes Chambertin
83 Haut Brion.
85 Margaux. Really awesome.
86 Cos d'Estournel
86 Mouton, always great, but I've had better bottles.
85 Solaia
90 Pichon Baron
89 Palmer.
90 Latour like a sledge hammer. Way way way too young.
90 Margaux.
95 Chave Hermitage.
90 la Chapelle.
86 Romanee Conti Echezeaux.
96 Mortet Chambertin. 0a
88 Mascarello Baorlo.
79 Haut Brion.
88 Giacosa Santo Stafano Barbaresco
90 Quinterelli alzerio
70 Durcru.
99 Ravaneau Blanchet.
89 Trimbach csh vt hors chois.
1834 barbeito malvazia maderia.

2006 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane

Dark ruby. Musty, earthy, sweet pine sap aromas. Rich, ripe pinot flavor, gives me a vision of a rainy evergreen forest. Great depth as it washes into a long, vibrating finish. Excellent Californian pinot, done in a full-bodied style. Near perfect balance. I got this from the Merry Edwards mailing list. I'm on the list mostly for her outstanding sauvignon blanc, but this is quite impressive. I paid $60, and current retail is $120. Grade: A.

2006 Rosenblum Petite Syrah Heritage Clones

Here's a easy going wine. Likable for its deep, dark, rich, fruit-forward flavors. Although clearly a Californian with its juicy, ripe dark fruit profile, its also got an interesting spicy black southern Rhone style pepper streak. Well balanced and tasty. Very good value. Retail $17, Grade: A-.

2006 Roty Marsannay

Deep dark ruby. Very pretty serious aromas of fig, dirt and cinnamon. Floral palate nicely balanced and a satisfying finish. Brad says its fresh. Getting better over the hour we drink. Excellent burgundy at this price is very rare. Great value. One to buy and enjoy now. Hints of much higher priced wine. Retail $32, Grade A-.

Spetember 2008 dinner at 11 Madison Park

Great dinner/ mostly BYO tasting. All the wine we drank is very expensive.

1st wine was from the list, served blind. Caramel toast, oily silky, satin and and internal vibrating intensity that is remarkable. Saline. Bubblegum on the palate. Trent explains the bubblegum is a give away on this vineyard. Hazelnuts on the nose. Seth says lots of oomph. 1995 Batard Montrachet Leflaive. Stunning. Grade: A+

1989 Demontille Pommard Rugiens. Way less stinky than the last bottle we drank a few months earlier. Funky earthy pure fruit. Tasty. Grade: A.

3rd was blind, also from the wine list. Much more tropical. Papaya. Mango. Medicinal. Hubba bubba makes it a batard. Green apple. Oyster shell. The wine is 1995 Gagnard Batard Montrachet. Perfume. Classic burgundy. Grade: A-

1986 Romanee Conti Echezeaux. So fine and earthy and. Funky and so complex long but not strong finish. Light/ medium body but just so delecate. Trent says high pitched fruit. This is tasty and ready to go. Grade: A

1986 La Tache. Great spice nose. Anise. Light bodied and very acidic. After 15 minutes it harmonizes . Seth says hugh mocha. I see the pedigree. But a little letdown at this price ($1000 plus). Grade B.

1986 chave vin de paille. Oh my. Roasted caramel. Toffee. Impeccible balance. Not that sweet. Dried apricots. Just so charming and impeccible. Huge finish. Perfect desert. Seth syas the finish is 43 minutes long and someone takes a apricot and shove it into your brain. Grade: A+

2003 Bodega Norton Privada

Inky dark. Interesting smells, something like sappy pine, and overripe plums. Thick and heavy handed on the palate. Lots of attack and strength, but not enough poise. Solid, and would be enjoyed by fans of bruiser wines. I enjoy powerful wine, but to get at least an A-, a wine must have substance and grace; this is all flesh and bone. Retail $33, grade: B.

2005 Pine Ridge Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon

Seductively dark. Aromas of cedar, spice, and ripe plums. Rich and lively, with full bodied chocolate, coffee and classic Rutherford blueberry flavors. Long, nicely oaked finish. Delicious. Outstanding cabernet, at this price. It is easy to spend $75-$100+ to get a well balanced example of California cabernet. This one really delivers. Retail $50, grade: A.

2005 Ponsot Morey Saint Denis Cuvee des Grives

Big, serious and lush, hard to drink now. Deep and dark wine. It smells like a piny forest with mint, and dirt. A dense mouth full of cloves and smoke with sour cherry. Lots of tannins on the end. This is all potential, and will be very good to excellent in 5 more years. Now it has too many rough edges, at this price. Retail $60, Grade: B+ (for drinking later), B- today.

OK I revisited this one day later and what a difference. It is now smooth with juicy cherries, and very well integrated. If you are going to open this now, decant a few hours first. Today it is a B+, with an A- potential.

2001 Chateau de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrache "Grandes Ruchottes"

Pale golden. Beautiful vanilla and buttery lemon aromas. Strong, edgy, masculine white burgundy. There's some iron, toast, and wet stones. Very complex wine, with excellent energy and thrust. However, it doesn't completely sing on key as there's a hard metalic element running through its core. Great value at the price I paid ($39) as it tastes a bit more expensive. Lowest current retail: $48, grade: A-.

A great dinner at Convivio with both my brothers!!

What a great night. Such a treat to eat with both of my brothers. Given that we live in different cities, this happens rarely. Convivio is an excellent restaurant. Great food, especially the magical pasta dishes. And we drank very well:

1986 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon. All kinds of cigar box, cedar and eucalyptus. Dark and
smells like a top Bordeaux but delicious ripe fruit and a long finish. Still young at age 23! Togni makes his wines to last forever. The '69 Chapellet he made is supposed to be approaching maturity now. Available only at auction. Grade A.

2001 Piano di monte Vergine dei Feudi di San Gregorio. This is interesting. Inky syrupy and with what Gary says is a green streak. Very dark. Huge wine with a very long, wild, tannic finish and a little flab. Tasty. Retail $65, grade: B+

2004 Testamatta. I will start collecting this now. Amazing menthol blueberry nose. So cool and refined. Sleek smooth and utterly compelling finish. Shining, ripe fresh fruit and sleek smooth tannins. Very young and will live 20+ years no problem. My favorite tonight, in tough company. Retail $100, Grade: A.

1996 Denis Mortet Chambertin

Absolutely killer, soulful wine. Very pretty, and darker than I'd expect for a 13 year old pinot. Aromas of rust, iron, dried leaves, and spicy cherry. Incredibly complex, and vacillates between fresh mushrooms and pretty berry fruit. Nice sappy palate and a very long, delicious, harmonious finish. If you can find this, buy it, and invite me to drink it with you. Expensive, and not currently for sale, but this is why I drink burgundy. Grade: A/A+

2007 Anthill Farms Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

Stunning quality at this level. This is a blend of vineyards, and is the lowest end (lowest retail) priced wine from Anthill. It a light, transparent style ruby. Pretty aromas of pine trees and lavender. Then an excellent balanced palate. Silky smooth and a turbo charged finish. My 7 months pregnant wife took a sip, then another, then another and loved every second. Don't worry, that's the most she's had to drink during the pregnancy. Retail $34, grade: A

2005 Ponsot Gevrey Chambertin Cuvee de l'Abeille

This is a giant of a villages level wine. It could pass for a top 1st cru. Right now, showing one dimension of powerful cherry, with strong acids, it will blossom with more time in the cellar. How do I know? Because it has a savage, dense core and a 40+ second finish. Great wine making, from an awesome vintage. I paid $39 on release from Premier Cru, but unfortunately, the current best price is $67. Grade: A- (grade A at the price I paid).

1998 Lamarche Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes

This is over the hill, like moldy books and wet cardboard. The longer it is open, the worse it gets. There's a hint of burgundy, but not enough. This will only go downhill. Retail $30, grade: D

Acker Wine Workshop: Trimbach Clos St Hune and Cuvee Emile retrospective

I got a few minutes with David Hamburger before the tasting.

How do you decide on the tastings?
Always interesting conversation between John Kapon and David. They look at horizontal (lots of wines from the same vintage) and vertical (same wine across multiple vintages). Sometimes they'll do a study on a producers (like tonight) or a region. Such as 1st growth Bordeaux 85 vs 86. Tonight is a hybrid theme.

What level of wine knowledge is required to attend?
Palate is a matter of taste. Analogy is an eye for art or music. People can say why one is better. Experts have a different sense from acquired taste. These tastings teach people how to acquire a palate. They use creativity to determine taster. Anyone can read the OED. Has to be a reason for tasting.

Best way to learn about wine?
Listen to people with good palates talk about wine with the wine in hand.

You a collector?
Mostly Riesling and Alsace. Riesling is more regal than chard. Not a big collection.

Most inspiring wines?
45 romanee conti.
Essence. Old world.
Roumier. Cote clos st hune and emele.

These wines are the ultimate in dry Riesling. Not for everyone but unique. Unique in taking on terrior. Slightest mistake shows. Has to achieve optimum ripeness. Late ripening. Underripe is grassy. Cool soil with heat is perfect for Clos st Hune. Wines are offputting to some. Emile retails for $35-40 and Hune $125-200+. 7000 vs 700 case production.

2001
1. Very pale golden. Great minerals. Huge fruit salad palate . Delicious. A- territory here. Emile

2 corked

2000
3. Darker golden. More acids. More salt. Great aromatics. Peaches and stones. Very long. Hune. Sublime. A.

4. Paler. Like 1. Fresher aroma brighter fruit. Tails off on the finish. A-

5 2003 emile. Musty moldy. Juicy ripe more salted melons. Alcohol more noticeable. Not as balanced. Least favorite so far but still good and easy drinking. B+

6 1999 Hune. Lovely acidic fun. Peepee duchot. Very clear almost like water. Young. Stony minerality long and lemony finish. Live 20+ more years. A-

7. 1997 Hune. Petrol and flowers. Long steely and smooth finish. David says beeswax and limes. . So complex. Elegant. A.

8 1996 Hune. Band aids. More fleshy than the others. But also delicate and long. Very different than the others. Something is odd. Oxidized? Little darker than the others in this flight. B+

9. 1990 Hune. Everything is in the right place. Finish is 2x as long as the others. Minerals. Stones. Petrol. But perfect integration and harmony. Transcends its genre and the best Riesling I've tried. Gives me chills. a+

10 1990 Emile Vendage Tardive. Late harvest. Some sweetness. Lighter than the other Emile. Because of the sugars has more of everything. Youthful. Excessively long. Wow. Great. Most disagree with me here. A

11. 1989 Emile Vendage Tardive. Also big wow. More advanced age. David says tropical. Some complex candied sweet butterscotch great and very long. A.

12. 1983 Emile Vendage Tardive. Make me smile. Moldy nose. Much darker advanced color and now I can tell this has some bottle age. Very long and good. Grade A.

13 1983 Emile selection de grains nobles. Very sweet. Seems young still. Wouldn't guess that old. Nicely done. A-