2004 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

Strange smells: flinty, peaches and salty briny small pebbles. Incredibly complex. Fruit comes second on the palate after doughy salty herbaceous, with white grapefruit, pomello, juniper and unsweetened lemon juice. Then iodine, baker's yeast, and dried hay. Very interesting. Not a hedonists delight, but will pair well with most seafood or a pre dinner cheese course. The wine has a strong sense of purpose. I don't love it but I certainly can appreciate it. I paid $30, retail is about $50. Graded at the retail cost.

With utterly perfect nova from Russ and Daughters. See link on the right. They have the best smoked fish in the world. Niki (one of the owners) is our friend. My wife Jill was on the phone with her today, and Jill decided to get a mixed order delivered, including amazing gefilte fish, several types of smoked and cured salmon, sable and curried herring. It arrived, packed on ice, in less than 2 hours. They get an A+. Thanks Niki!

Grade: B