2004 Fongoli Montefalco Rosso

Welcome to Umbria! Fascinating, medium ruby, looks like a pinot, but smells like nothing else I've had, with cinnamon, olive oil, and hairy raspberries. Medium body and finish, but impeccable balance. Has the subtlety of a burgundy, but replace the funky mushrooms with spice. To some, this may look like grade inflation, but I'm buying winners lately. With a simple dinner of grilled fillet mignon, french fries and boiled sugar snap pees. Retail $21.99

Grade: A