Denis Mortet Retrospective at Executive Wine Seminars
Denis Mortet killed himself in January 2006. He was a tragic brilliant producer who suffered profound depression. Now the vineyard is run by young son. He's based in northern burgundy.
This tasting goes up in quality and price, leading to le chambertin. They owns 2 acres of white grapes and 22 of pinot. 04s are stunning given the difficult July rains. 05 is a no brainer. In general, these wines are worth seeking out, as they are particular and delicious.
The House style paints a picture of a car driving down a dry dirt road, kicking up dusty earth.
Here are the wines we tried, with my grades:
2005 bourgogne blanc. Light style. Steely lemon rind. Salty. Nice but tails off quickly on the finish. Retail $38, grade: B.
2005 Marsannay "les Longeroies". Nice spicy cherry nose from this underrated area. Soily almost dirty fruit with a nice building finish. Lacks the depth of the more expensive vineyards. Can drink now. Retail $50, grade: B+
2004 Gevrey Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs. Soily mineral nose more pronounced and
dusty. Some green unripe notes. Much longer and more dry dusty dirty flavors, in a good way. Incredible complexity and long finish but this is all potential. Will improve significantly. Retail $90, grade: A-
2005 Gevrey Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs. Riper and easier to drink and just delicious. Why did I not buy any yet? All the dust and minerals of the 04 with more sweetness, depth, and a longer finish. Buy a case. Drink one now and put the rest away for at least 5 years. Retail $125, grade: A.
2002 Gevrey Chambertin au Velle. The group didn't like this one. Seems simpler, with a nose of cherry juice. Seems thinner and smaller. The color is the same as the previous two wines but seems diluted ? Menthol with bitterness at the end. Retail $125, grade: B-
2005 Gevrey Chambertin 1st Cru. Strange rubbery nose and the it burns off. Lots of depth
and strength here. Not drinking as well as the other 05 in this flight now. It needs lots of cellar time, at least 7 years, then should be delicious. Retail $170, grade: A-
Now we approach the big leagues, and turn to the famous 1st cru vineyard Lavaut st Jacques. It is known as one of the best in Gevery Chambertin. The wines from this area are the lushest and richest. One of the most reliable vineyards. Like a super second.
1996 Lavaut St Jacques. Tragic vintage. Great fruit but lots of wine making problems. Smells amazing. Strong disagreement here. Lavender, bright cherries and so compelling. Then a relative let down on the palate. Over the hill? Degrades in the glass and some cat litter comes out. Retail $150, grade: B-
2003 Lavaut St Jacques. Smells bizarre in this lineup. The heat and flesh of the hot vintage show. Then very ripe extracted, almost jammy, and long. Tastes good. Clean ripe fruit and
rocking but not enough vineyard character. Retail $125, grade: A-
2004 Lavaut St Jacques. Mineral and saline nose. Rough, tumble and rustic. Not showing much
fruit. Someone says maryjane. But at the same time it is long so tells me it it'll age. Tannins are really present. Smoke good acid and a little green. For the cellar. Retail $150, grade: A.
2005 Lavaut St Jacques. Critics all love it and it is hard to argue. Just awesome balance
and alive character. This is amazing. The nose is divine. Most say closed. Super strong
with a multi minute finish. Like the last round it is similar to the 04 but deeper and richer. Hold off 5 years? For sure one to buy. Retail $160, grade: A.
2004 Chambolle-Musigny "Les Beaux-Bruns". Sexier than the others. More fruit than the
other 04s. And that is the Chambolle character. Violets and a silky velvet mouth feel. Luxury and a clingingly long finish. A must buy. Incredible. Retail $145, grade: A/a+
2004 Gevery Chambertin Champeaux. Lovely smooth silky fruit great. Close to the chambolle.
Now I am loving Mortet. Interesting Iron component, with some limestone thrown in. Retail $160, grade: A.
2005 Gevery Chambertin Champeaux. Candied nose and so compelling and stylized. Really
awesome and mineral laced. Long sweet and awesome. I so love this. The dust is there but small. Retail $300, grade: A.
Now we drink the grand crus and I am glad to be alive.
04 Clos de Vougeot. Licorice. Dense unlike the others. Packed full of strawberries, raw mushrooms and cinnamon. Spices and everything is right. Retail $300, grade: A.
05 Clos de Vougeot. Oh my. Just awesome burgundy. Inspired, and keeps changing.
There's salt, spice, black pepper, black cherry, and just stunning shine. Now I am getting
chills. So great. Retail $350, grade: A+
04 Chambertin. 1 case imported! The nose is a whole universe of aromas. One of the best wines I've ever had. So alive and a perfect work of art. The finish starts out then expands and twists like a perfectly told story. Still tannic. This will improve. Its a little green but as a work of art it
fits in with the rest. We are in the big time. I still have the empty bottle. If anyone wants to invite me to drink this I will be your friend for life. There are only 11 bottles left in the US, assuming we are the only people to open one so far. Not available at retail. Grade: A+
This tasting goes up in quality and price, leading to le chambertin. They owns 2 acres of white grapes and 22 of pinot. 04s are stunning given the difficult July rains. 05 is a no brainer. In general, these wines are worth seeking out, as they are particular and delicious.
The House style paints a picture of a car driving down a dry dirt road, kicking up dusty earth.
Here are the wines we tried, with my grades:
2005 bourgogne blanc. Light style. Steely lemon rind. Salty. Nice but tails off quickly on the finish. Retail $38, grade: B.
2005 Marsannay "les Longeroies". Nice spicy cherry nose from this underrated area. Soily almost dirty fruit with a nice building finish. Lacks the depth of the more expensive vineyards. Can drink now. Retail $50, grade: B+
2004 Gevrey Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs. Soily mineral nose more pronounced and
dusty. Some green unripe notes. Much longer and more dry dusty dirty flavors, in a good way. Incredible complexity and long finish but this is all potential. Will improve significantly. Retail $90, grade: A-
2005 Gevrey Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs. Riper and easier to drink and just delicious. Why did I not buy any yet? All the dust and minerals of the 04 with more sweetness, depth, and a longer finish. Buy a case. Drink one now and put the rest away for at least 5 years. Retail $125, grade: A.
2002 Gevrey Chambertin au Velle. The group didn't like this one. Seems simpler, with a nose of cherry juice. Seems thinner and smaller. The color is the same as the previous two wines but seems diluted ? Menthol with bitterness at the end. Retail $125, grade: B-
2005 Gevrey Chambertin 1st Cru. Strange rubbery nose and the it burns off. Lots of depth
and strength here. Not drinking as well as the other 05 in this flight now. It needs lots of cellar time, at least 7 years, then should be delicious. Retail $170, grade: A-
Now we approach the big leagues, and turn to the famous 1st cru vineyard Lavaut st Jacques. It is known as one of the best in Gevery Chambertin. The wines from this area are the lushest and richest. One of the most reliable vineyards. Like a super second.
1996 Lavaut St Jacques. Tragic vintage. Great fruit but lots of wine making problems. Smells amazing. Strong disagreement here. Lavender, bright cherries and so compelling. Then a relative let down on the palate. Over the hill? Degrades in the glass and some cat litter comes out. Retail $150, grade: B-
2003 Lavaut St Jacques. Smells bizarre in this lineup. The heat and flesh of the hot vintage show. Then very ripe extracted, almost jammy, and long. Tastes good. Clean ripe fruit and
rocking but not enough vineyard character. Retail $125, grade: A-
2004 Lavaut St Jacques. Mineral and saline nose. Rough, tumble and rustic. Not showing much
fruit. Someone says maryjane. But at the same time it is long so tells me it it'll age. Tannins are really present. Smoke good acid and a little green. For the cellar. Retail $150, grade: A.
2005 Lavaut St Jacques. Critics all love it and it is hard to argue. Just awesome balance
and alive character. This is amazing. The nose is divine. Most say closed. Super strong
with a multi minute finish. Like the last round it is similar to the 04 but deeper and richer. Hold off 5 years? For sure one to buy. Retail $160, grade: A.
2004 Chambolle-Musigny "Les Beaux-Bruns". Sexier than the others. More fruit than the
other 04s. And that is the Chambolle character. Violets and a silky velvet mouth feel. Luxury and a clingingly long finish. A must buy. Incredible. Retail $145, grade: A/a+
2004 Gevery Chambertin Champeaux. Lovely smooth silky fruit great. Close to the chambolle.
Now I am loving Mortet. Interesting Iron component, with some limestone thrown in. Retail $160, grade: A.
2005 Gevery Chambertin Champeaux. Candied nose and so compelling and stylized. Really
awesome and mineral laced. Long sweet and awesome. I so love this. The dust is there but small. Retail $300, grade: A.
Now we drink the grand crus and I am glad to be alive.
04 Clos de Vougeot. Licorice. Dense unlike the others. Packed full of strawberries, raw mushrooms and cinnamon. Spices and everything is right. Retail $300, grade: A.
05 Clos de Vougeot. Oh my. Just awesome burgundy. Inspired, and keeps changing.
There's salt, spice, black pepper, black cherry, and just stunning shine. Now I am getting
chills. So great. Retail $350, grade: A+
04 Chambertin. 1 case imported! The nose is a whole universe of aromas. One of the best wines I've ever had. So alive and a perfect work of art. The finish starts out then expands and twists like a perfectly told story. Still tannic. This will improve. Its a little green but as a work of art it
fits in with the rest. We are in the big time. I still have the empty bottle. If anyone wants to invite me to drink this I will be your friend for life. There are only 11 bottles left in the US, assuming we are the only people to open one so far. Not available at retail. Grade: A+
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