Acker Wine Workshop: Trimbach Clos St Hune and Cuvee Emile retrospective
I got a few minutes with David Hamburger before the tasting.
How do you decide on the tastings?
Always interesting conversation between John Kapon and David. They look at horizontal (lots of wines from the same vintage) and vertical (same wine across multiple vintages). Sometimes they'll do a study on a producers (like tonight) or a region. Such as 1st growth Bordeaux 85 vs 86. Tonight is a hybrid theme.
What level of wine knowledge is required to attend?
Palate is a matter of taste. Analogy is an eye for art or music. People can say why one is better. Experts have a different sense from acquired taste. These tastings teach people how to acquire a palate. They use creativity to determine taster. Anyone can read the OED. Has to be a reason for tasting.
Best way to learn about wine?
Listen to people with good palates talk about wine with the wine in hand.
You a collector?
Mostly Riesling and Alsace. Riesling is more regal than chard. Not a big collection.
Most inspiring wines?
45 romanee conti.
Essence. Old world.
Roumier. Cote clos st hune and emele.
These wines are the ultimate in dry Riesling. Not for everyone but unique. Unique in taking on terrior. Slightest mistake shows. Has to achieve optimum ripeness. Late ripening. Underripe is grassy. Cool soil with heat is perfect for Clos st Hune. Wines are offputting to some. Emile retails for $35-40 and Hune $125-200+. 7000 vs 700 case production.
2001
1. Very pale golden. Great minerals. Huge fruit salad palate . Delicious. A- territory here. Emile
2 corked
2000
3. Darker golden. More acids. More salt. Great aromatics. Peaches and stones. Very long. Hune. Sublime. A.
4. Paler. Like 1. Fresher aroma brighter fruit. Tails off on the finish. A-
5 2003 emile. Musty moldy. Juicy ripe more salted melons. Alcohol more noticeable. Not as balanced. Least favorite so far but still good and easy drinking. B+
6 1999 Hune. Lovely acidic fun. Peepee duchot. Very clear almost like water. Young. Stony minerality long and lemony finish. Live 20+ more years. A-
7. 1997 Hune. Petrol and flowers. Long steely and smooth finish. David says beeswax and limes. . So complex. Elegant. A.
8 1996 Hune. Band aids. More fleshy than the others. But also delicate and long. Very different than the others. Something is odd. Oxidized? Little darker than the others in this flight. B+
9. 1990 Hune. Everything is in the right place. Finish is 2x as long as the others. Minerals. Stones. Petrol. But perfect integration and harmony. Transcends its genre and the best Riesling I've tried. Gives me chills. a+
10 1990 Emile Vendage Tardive. Late harvest. Some sweetness. Lighter than the other Emile. Because of the sugars has more of everything. Youthful. Excessively long. Wow. Great. Most disagree with me here. A
11. 1989 Emile Vendage Tardive. Also big wow. More advanced age. David says tropical. Some complex candied sweet butterscotch great and very long. A.
12. 1983 Emile Vendage Tardive. Make me smile. Moldy nose. Much darker advanced color and now I can tell this has some bottle age. Very long and good. Grade A.
13 1983 Emile selection de grains nobles. Very sweet. Seems young still. Wouldn't guess that old. Nicely done. A-
How do you decide on the tastings?
Always interesting conversation between John Kapon and David. They look at horizontal (lots of wines from the same vintage) and vertical (same wine across multiple vintages). Sometimes they'll do a study on a producers (like tonight) or a region. Such as 1st growth Bordeaux 85 vs 86. Tonight is a hybrid theme.
What level of wine knowledge is required to attend?
Palate is a matter of taste. Analogy is an eye for art or music. People can say why one is better. Experts have a different sense from acquired taste. These tastings teach people how to acquire a palate. They use creativity to determine taster. Anyone can read the OED. Has to be a reason for tasting.
Best way to learn about wine?
Listen to people with good palates talk about wine with the wine in hand.
You a collector?
Mostly Riesling and Alsace. Riesling is more regal than chard. Not a big collection.
Most inspiring wines?
45 romanee conti.
Essence. Old world.
Roumier. Cote clos st hune and emele.
These wines are the ultimate in dry Riesling. Not for everyone but unique. Unique in taking on terrior. Slightest mistake shows. Has to achieve optimum ripeness. Late ripening. Underripe is grassy. Cool soil with heat is perfect for Clos st Hune. Wines are offputting to some. Emile retails for $35-40 and Hune $125-200+. 7000 vs 700 case production.
2001
1. Very pale golden. Great minerals. Huge fruit salad palate . Delicious. A- territory here. Emile
2 corked
2000
3. Darker golden. More acids. More salt. Great aromatics. Peaches and stones. Very long. Hune. Sublime. A.
4. Paler. Like 1. Fresher aroma brighter fruit. Tails off on the finish. A-
5 2003 emile. Musty moldy. Juicy ripe more salted melons. Alcohol more noticeable. Not as balanced. Least favorite so far but still good and easy drinking. B+
6 1999 Hune. Lovely acidic fun. Peepee duchot. Very clear almost like water. Young. Stony minerality long and lemony finish. Live 20+ more years. A-
7. 1997 Hune. Petrol and flowers. Long steely and smooth finish. David says beeswax and limes. . So complex. Elegant. A.
8 1996 Hune. Band aids. More fleshy than the others. But also delicate and long. Very different than the others. Something is odd. Oxidized? Little darker than the others in this flight. B+
9. 1990 Hune. Everything is in the right place. Finish is 2x as long as the others. Minerals. Stones. Petrol. But perfect integration and harmony. Transcends its genre and the best Riesling I've tried. Gives me chills. a+
10 1990 Emile Vendage Tardive. Late harvest. Some sweetness. Lighter than the other Emile. Because of the sugars has more of everything. Youthful. Excessively long. Wow. Great. Most disagree with me here. A
11. 1989 Emile Vendage Tardive. Also big wow. More advanced age. David says tropical. Some complex candied sweet butterscotch great and very long. A.
12. 1983 Emile Vendage Tardive. Make me smile. Moldy nose. Much darker advanced color and now I can tell this has some bottle age. Very long and good. Grade A.
13 1983 Emile selection de grains nobles. Very sweet. Seems young still. Wouldn't guess that old. Nicely done. A-
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